I am currently living in Ixtahuacan, Guatemala. It’s a small town on the central west side of Guatemala and the local language is Mam. I’ve been in the country for two months as of Monday, and will likely be here for one more. Culture shock has come in waves, and occasionally still it shows up, but I’ve certainly grown accustomed to being here. Lately there have been women telling me that I’m going to end up marrying someone from here (the same as Todd), and I’ve even been proposed to a few times by drunk men, but luckily I have someone back home.
In Ixtahuacan there are two cultures: the indigenous and the
ladrino, or mixed cultures. The indigenous culture is typically marked first by
the dark skin and hair color, second by the Mam language, and third by the
clothing style. They also tend to be more reserved in their social
interactions. The traditional clothing is more obvious in the women, as the men
have slowly adapted to wear more Western clothing, but some accessories and
outfits are still used for everyday or ceremonial occasions. The women wear
what is called a traje, which is a woven whipeel (a type of shirt) and a corte (a type of wrap skirt). The material is heavy and
sturdy, similar to canvas, but not quite as rough. (I will post a picture of me
wearing one later.) The ladrino culture is much more outgoing (I can definitely
see some residue of Spanish culture), and the women greet each other with a
besito (a kiss, on the right cheek). The men also greet women this way, but it
is much more common amongst women, as far as I can tell. Ladrinos typically
have lighter, olive skin with fine hair (I’ve seen one boy who’s as light as me
with blue eyes, which is incredibly rare here. Perhaps this sounds strange to a
U.S. American, but it’s definitely something that is noticed here.) Those
raised in the ladrino culture usually only speak Castellano (Spanish), where
the indigenous know both Castellano and Mam.
In general, the biggest struggle has been the language. I am
learning that I understand far more than I am able to express, which means I
need to speak more Spanish when I can. With the family, I speak both English
(to Todd, Yanna, and John Diego) and Spanish (to Caty), but it can be tempting
to go to an English-speaker first when I need something. Something I have come
to appreciate, however, is being forced to speak Spanish, being forced to
express myself in a language that feels strange. My Spanish has increased much
faster in the two months that I have been here than in the four I was in Spain
studying the language, because I am forced to speak it. While studying abroad
in Spain I was with a group of 30 or so other U.S. American students, whom I
spent most of my free time with. It was too easy to speak English. Here, other
than Todd and Yanna, there are a few men that have spent some time working in
the States and know a little English, but it’s far easier for us to converse in
Spanish.
I mentioned earlier that I have one more month here in
Ixtahuacan. Right now I am looking at two potential volunteer sites (where I
would spend my two years as a BVSer), one in Totonicapan (toto-nee-ka-pan) and
the other in Nebaj (nay-bah). Both would be working with a women’s group that
focuses on food security and educating locals how to grow food to support their
families. Todd and I are hoping to visit both sites sometime next week or the
week after, and then I would choose which site I like (if I like either of
them) and spend my time volunteering there. It’s a little tricky because Caty
is pregnant and due in early December, so we’re definitely a little crunched
for time, especially if the baby decides to come early.
All in all, I’m doing well here. I miss home sometimes, but
I’m happy to be here and to have this experience. I’m always craving something
but I have no idea what it is. I’m adjusting to the smaller portions of food
here, but also learning the difference between want and need. How much do I
really need to eat?
Les vaya bien (may you all go well),
Jess
